Showing posts with label cognac. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cognac. Show all posts

Saturday, November 1, 2014

The Bayers in Bordeaux

After hearing how much fun everyone had in April, Jason's father Jay decided that he should visit us in Bordeaux, if for nothing else than to see what all the fuss was about. It took quite a bit of convincing and there was even a moment when I thought he might just say forget it and never come, but Jason's powers of persuasion are strong. Julie was, as she always is, just excited to be spending time with us.

Jason is quite the planner when it comes to vacations, so he had their whole 10-day adventure laid out: Day trips to a few nearby towns, plus a night in San Sebastian, all strategically interspersed with downtime in Bordeaux. Some of you may be thinking to yourselves "Ten days with your in-laws sounds like a lot" and you would be right, BUT it's a long time to have ANYONE stay in your house and keep them entertained. I must admit that the time really flew by because we had so much to do thanks to Jason's expert organization. No visit is perfect but we got pretty darn close. Here are some highlights:

Cognac
We stole this one from when Kelly and Kate were here. Tour a maison, drink lots of cognac, hang out by the river. Check, check and check. The only negative point of the day was the wait time on our dinner. I swear it was a full hour between our appetizer and our main dish, with no one coming to offer us more wine or an apology for the delay. Service in France isn't maniacal constant badgering like in the US but it's not usually total abandonment, either. I swear, I nearly got up to go fishing for my own damn merlu... And then I remembered I was having a three-course meal in Cognac and I felt just a bit pretentious!



If I had any artistic ability, this is what I would paint.

Portes Ouvertes in Graves
This was such a hit with my mom last year that we decided to do it again with Jason's parents. (Jay is not one to miss out on the fun if everyone else is doing it.) We rented a car and dragged Rick along for the ride for a perfectly sunny day of wine tasting and touring. As is often the case, I got to play translator at a few places and show off my bilingualism a little bit, and Jay discovered how tricky it can be to separate two Romance languages :"I keep saying 'Sí' but I know I'm supposed to say 'Oui'! This is ridiculous." Also, wine!

Château Cerons
Château Castres 



Toulouse
As a girl, Julie had a couple of pen pals from Toulouse so she had always dreamed of visiting. Jason and I are in the business of making dreams come true so we hopped a train and off we went for a day in the ville en rose. It was our first time, too, so we had plenty to explore and discover, and it was kind of cool to share Julie's wide-eyed wonder in this new city. We almost got stuck with a 50-minute delay on our return to Bordeaux, but I was able to get us home on time by requesting seats on the train prior to ours that was also late. Bam! Nicole saves the day.







Finally talking to Jay
My relationship with Jay has always been a bit... strained. I don't know if it's because he thinks I'm encroaching on his time with his one and only baby boy, or if it's because we have such vastly different opinions on literally everything, or maybe it's because I don't fit his ideal of what a "good woman" is. I got on like a house on fire with everyone else in the family while Jay and I were barely making sparks.

One night after some escargots and a few glasses (bottles) of wine, the two of us ended up getting in a very intense conversation about everything from white privilege to systemic racism to socialized health care and everything in between. I'm not saying that we see eye to eye on all of these issues now, but I do think that I helped him see the flaw in the "bootstraps" argument that he believed so earnestly. So you mean black and brown people aren't just inherently lazy? And that even though I grew up a poor kid in the country, I still had certain advantages afforded to me simply because of my skin color? It took hours, but if I can get a staunch republican to admit that there are systems in place in the US that keep certain people in power and others marginalized, it gives me hope for humanity.

In addition to the higher moral victory, it was also the moment that finally got Jay to see me as someone worthy of his time. There was a very tangible shift that night from my being some know-it-all liberal girl corrupting his only son to a well-educated, well-spoken person with passion, and even Jay can appreciate that. I don't necessarily need us to be best friends, but I do need him to respect me and I think we're finally getting to that point.

San Sebastian and Basque Cider Houses
In the final leg of Jay and Julie's trip, we drove down to our favorite Spanish town for the evening and relished in the local flavors of bacalao, rioja and endless pintxos. Rows upon rows of small plates, lined up across the bar, luring us in with their bright colors and intoxicating aromas. I love French food, but there is something so playful about tapas-style eating. You can try so many different things, a little at a time, taking a little culinary voyage with every bite. It also doesn't hurt that San Sebastian is a stunningly beautiful city.




Pintxos for dinner

The view from our hotel

After a night of snacking and drinking, we ventured outside of town a bit to the Petretegi cider house for a fun day of learning about the Basque region, cider making and of course lots of drinking. The giant barrels were so pressurized that the cider would come shooting out of them and lightning speed. You had to be pretty quick with your glass to catch it all!





With over a week's worth of memories and new experiences to share with their friends, Jay and Julie headed back to Pennsylvania. We can't be sure, but something tells me they'll be back...

Tuesday, July 8, 2014

Bayer Bookings, Bed & Breakfast

Most people in France take their holiday time in July or August. As we learned this year, most Americans do it in June. This is the story of how we ended up running a tour service/bed and breakfast out of our apartment for a solid month.

Starting in January, we were getting requests from people who wanted to come visit. As far as I knew at the time, I was not going to be working after May, so when everyone said they were interested in June, I was thrilled. It's a great time to be in Bordeaux: lots to do, great weather, and the English-speaking staff at restaurants will be on duty.

It was going to be a busy month, for sure, but nothing crazy:
June 4-11: Kelly and Kate (our friends from Baltimore)
June 16-19: Jere and Joyce (Jason's aunt and uncle)
June 23-26: Drew and Kristen (my friends from college)

As time went on, though, I was offered more classes and more things to do at work. They needed people to interview the new students for next year, I had another sequence of my seminar to teach, my evening class ran through July 1. Suddenly, I was no longer as available as I had originally thought. Jason was equally tied up with things to do at work because, you know, he has a full time job. Adding to the madness, we had two more additions to the lineup come in at the end of May/beginning of June:

June 4-11: Kelly and Kate
June 16-19: Jere and Joyce
June 21-23: Alyn (our friend from Baltimore)
June 23-26: Drew and Kristen
June 28-30: Jenna and Ben (my friends from college)

I do not want you to think for one second that it was not AMAZING seeing everyone. It is really cool to share your new life with people from your old life. I find that friendships often exist in a specific place and time, and when you no longer share that space, many of your friendships change or fade away completely. It is truly special when a friendship can 1) last despite the difference in time and space and 2) exist, even in a small way/moment, within a new situation. It's more obvious when the time and space is greater, like moving to another continent and not seeing each other for over a year. Also considering that we don't have a ton of close friends here, it was wonderful to spend time with people that we know well and that know us. Refreshing.

All that being said, I must admit that it was kind of an insane endeavor, now that I have the time to reflect on it a bit. Trying to balance work, touring around, catching up with people and just living was a lot more challenging than we had anticipated. Even more so when you have to do it five times in a row with very little (sometimes no) break in between. Little things like eating and getting places take much more time and energy than normal, and you start to feel like a kindergarten teacher: "Is anyone hungry? Who has to use the bathroom? Did everyone get a chance to see that? Okay, let's keep going. Stay together!" I felt like I didn't talk to Jason for the whole month, partially due to our tag-team work-guest routine, and also because we were so busy talking to everyone else. It was all such a blur and I wish I had had more time to just sit and enjoy the company of our friends instead of running from pillar to post, trying to see and do everything.

But how do you really balance the two? When people are here, maybe for the only time in their lives, it would be a shame not to explore the city and the surroundings. Seeing as I live here, I do know some things about Bordeaux and I was really happy to get to share that knowledge with everyone. There are so many things that I love about this place and it's hard to do them all in two or three days, so you almost feel obligated to run around a bit.

What have we learned from this whole experience? First, that there is no substitute for good friends and family. Even under somewhat stressful conditions, there's love there and that makes it all worth it. Secondly, planning and anticipating are paramount. If you can check it out ahead of time, do it, so when you arrive, the only thing you have to worry about is having a good time. We have also gotten pretty good at knowing how long people are able to walk around before they need a rest, a bite to eat and/or a bathroom break, and you can't count on them to ask for any of those things before it becomes urgent. Lastly, it's okay to not know everything. I know I'm supposed to be the resident expert on all things European but that fact of the matter is that I still have a lot to learn and figuring them out together is not so bad.

Thank you everyone for coming to see us! We love you!!

I didn't have time to take a lot of pictures but there are a few good ones I managed to snap throughout our crazy adventures:

With Kelly and Kate: Cognac-Bordeaux-Biarritz-Pamplona-San Sebastian-Bordeaux. I learned that cognac is delicious and re-learned that Spain is awesome.
At Rémy Martin in Cognac


Biarritz


Pamplona


San Sebastian


With Jere and Joyce: They kind of did their own thing so they took their own photos. Thanks for being so independent!

With Alyn: Fête de Musique in Bordeaux and St. Emilion. The best way to do an outdoor concert is to have performances everywhere and to be able to drink in the street.






With Drew and Kristen: Bordeaux and Arcachon (w/ Nicole). Crowded transportation + climbing a giant sand dune + eating your body weight in mussels = epic nap on the beach.


With Jenna and Ben: Bordeaux Wine Festival and St. Emilion (w/ Jason). A diet comprised solely of wine and cheese is a pretty good diet.



This is made completely out of corks