Sunday, November 8, 2015

My Brief and Wonderous Life as a Gaelic Footballer

Ever wonder what it would look like if soccer, rugby, and Aussie rules football all got together and had a baby? That biologically impossible child would probably look a lot like Gaelic Football.

The Bordeaux women's rugby team was a bit too intimidating so when I saw a poster for Burdigaela, it seemed like a perfect fit. Of course I would transition from Ultimate to Rugby and then to Gaelic Football. Obscure sport that no one has ever heard of/is not typically played in the place where I live? Check. Running around in a big field? Check. Co-ed? Bonus check! Let's play.

I joined in October last year when my Kiwi friend Laura and I decided it was time to meet some French people and get some exercise. I had gone to a pick up session with the local Ultimate team and found them to be strangely standoffish and not really that good for how serious they seemed to be about the sport. The Gaelic gang, however, were ridiculously welcoming, inviting us for beers and snacks after practice and offering us rides back to the tram so we wouldn't have to wait hours for the bus. It was also really encouraging that no one was super great at it. Of course we had a couple folks that grew up playing it in Ireland but most players were new to the sport just like me so I wasn't alone in mishandling the ball every 10 seconds.

If you have any sport sense at all, it's actually not very hard to understand. "Get the ball in the net/through the uprights" is pretty much the objective for any field sport, and they are both true for Gaelic. The tricky part is moving the ball around but again, once you get the hang of it, it's not so bad. Every four steps, you have to do something with it: kick it back up to yourself (called a solo), dribble it once (but not two times in a row), kick it to a teammate or hand pass it to a teammate by striking the ball with one hand WHILE IT REMAINS IN THE OTHER HAND. On defense, stop the other team from doing all those things.

Rain or shine, I was at practice almost every Monday and Thursday. I have never been very good at doing fitness on my own so the team really held me accountable for staying in shape. There is nothing better than hanging out with friends and getting a solid work out at the same time. Plus, it was nice having girlfriends again. There is something truly special about the bond that forms between women who play sports together and I was surrounded by a really fun, international and dedicated group of ladies. (The guys were cool, too!) Life was good.




It was snowing back home on this day. I was in shorts and a T-Shirt.

The best and worst thing about Gaelic Football is its obscurity. Since so few people play it, if you have decent hand eye coordination and stamina, you can get pretty good pretty quick. Unfortunately, that also means that playing in real competitions against other players doesn't happen very often. While my class schedule left me plenty of time to attend practices, I was often working on Saturdays when our rare matches were held.

The first match I played was at home in Blanquefort and it was an amazing day. If I had not twisted my ankle in the first match, it would have been even better. We played well, earning second place after Rennes, a team comprised almost exclusively of girls who play for the French national team. (All that Celtic heritage is what makes them so damn good...) That evening, there was a giant party for all the players that attended the tournament. Imagine a beer hall at Oktoberfest and that's kind of what we had going on at this restaurant. Endless food and booze, with singing and dancing on the tables. When we started to get too rowdy, we hit the club for the after party. We danced 'til close and thankfully the booze kept the pain in my ankle mostly at bay until the next morning...

Tchu tcha Burdigaela!!!

I know my body well enough to know when something is just general day-after soreness and when something is really wrong and this was definitely the latter. I once walked around for three days with a broken leg before seeing a doctor and I was not trying to repeat the same mistake. I limped over to the hospital (It was Sunday. Nothing else is open) and had the doctors check me out. At the time, the most intense pain seemed to be coming from my right leg and was awfully reminiscent of how I felt with my fractured fibula. They did an x-ray and luckily nothing was broken. They prescribed crutches and pain killers, anyway, neither of which they could give me there at the hospital (??) and sent me home. Is it weird that I was disappointed that all my bones were intact? If nothing's broken, why does it hurt so bad???

Within a week or so, my leg felt fine but my ankle was only getting worse. I broke down and borrowed some crutches from a friend (the ones with forearm support, not the ones that go all the way to the armpit) but I was so unstable on them that I gave them up for fear that I would bust my other ankle on all these damn cobblestones.

There was another tournament in April but I had to miss it because of class. It was probably for the best since my ankle was still pretty banged up. By May, it was still not great but I really wanted to go to the tourney in Niort. Again, it was an excellent day. I love competing and it proved to be a day of high level play with lots of excitement. I scored a bunch of points and finally felt like I was doing what I was supposed to be doing. Everything was starting to click, not just with me but with the rest of the team, too. We played as a unit. We ended up losing to Rennes in the final, and it was a bit sad because we gave them a much better fight in pool play; injury and fatigue were our biggest adversaries that day.



The finals were held in Paris but I was in the US for Jenna's wedding. When I got back, it was visitor season so that kept me from going to trainings very often, coupled with Jason's insatiable wanderlust and getting ready for all the weddings at the end of the summer. Once I stopped going regularly, it was easier and easier to find an excuse to keep me from going back.

September was upon us before we knew it and I was working extra hard to make up for all the time that we were away. I accepted every course they would give me, which meant classes on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday nights. Although that still left me with Thursday evenings free, I was so tired by the time it rolled around that the last thing on my mind was spending another four hours running around out of the house. Also, there's this man that lives with me who I actually kind of like and it was surprisingly hard not having evenings together half of the week.

The final nail in the coffin was the fact that 90% of the people I was closest with on the team had left for bigger and better things in other corners of the world. As is usually the case, the team is the thing I like most about playing a sport and the team that I knew and loved just wasn't the same. There was also some drama between a few players and I didn't think it was handled very well by the executive board which left a bad taste in my mouth about the whole thing. In short, it was no longer a group I really could (or, honestly, wanted to) be a part of.

I can't say for sure that I'll never go back but it's just not in the cards for the moment. Maybe I will finally grow a pair and go check out the rugby team or try the Frisbee team again on a non-pick up night. Or maybe I'll find some other obscure sport to whet my fitness appetite. Anyone for a quick game of netball?

Sunday, November 1, 2015

Come and Rocamadour

Pre-historic cave paintings, underground caverns, quaint riverside towns, castles built into cliff sides, dirt cheap foie gras... This is south-central France.

Halloween isn't really a big deal in France but Jason had heard that they had a pretty good celebration for it in Limoges, a city about 3 hours north east of Bordeaux, best known for its porcelain. After doing a bit of research, he decided it would be much more interesting to check out some of the small towns in the area surrounding Limoges instead. So much for the pottery museum tour. Jason was chatting about his plans for the weekend at work and suddenly our romantic countryside getaway involved Rick, Fabrice and a 3-months pregnant Elodie. The more the merrier, though, and we were off for our adventure in the Lot/Dordogne/Corrèze area.

At quitting time on Friday afternoon, we hit the road and arrived at our countryside gîte in Baladou just in time to drop off our things and head into town for some dinner. While much of French cuisine is based on delicate techniques and careful presentation, this region is known for hearty, rustic dishes like duck confit and cassoulet. They also make some delightfully stinky cheeses that are impossibly creamy, as well as foie gras that will knock your damn socks right off. We were not disappointed with our meal.

On Saturday morning, we had a very nice breakfast with our gîte host before heading off to the Gouffre de Padirac: a massive 75m deep hole in the ground, formed by the collapse of an underground cavern in the 3rd century or so. A series of winding staircases takes you down to the bottom of the pit, where you can find a sprawling network of caves, only accessible by a boat ride along an underground river. It would be impossible to fully capture the magnitude and majesty of this place, but I tried my best.





When we had had our fill of spelunking for the day, we got back on the road. We stumbled upon the adorable town of Carennac, where we had a fantastic 4-course meal for a 17€, a delightful stroll along the Dore river and some truly charming old houses to look at. Highly recommended if you're in the area. Alas, there were many more things to see, so we made a quick stop in Curemont (skip it if you're short on time) before reaching our final destination for the day, Collonges-la-Rouge. As the name suggests, most of the buildings in town are made of red sandstone, giving everything a rosy hue. As if it weren't enchanting enough, it was Halloween night and all the kids in town were dressed up for the municipal party in the town square, sipping hot chocolate, mouths stained red from candy apples.




On Sunday, we made the trek out to Rocamadour, known for its stunning views of the valley and cliffs below, as well as its Cité Réligieuse, home to all things Jesus. The name was also given to a tasty cheese that's made in the area. It smells like the goats it's made from but is actually really delicious. Jason delighted us all with his remix version of the Three's Company theme song, which he sang non-stop the entire weekend. Come and Rocamadour!





After the splendor of a town built into a cliff, I wasn't sure much else could impress me but then we went to Pech Merle. You're not allowed to take pictures inside because the site features cave drawings from 29,000 BC and you know, that stuff's fragile, so you'll just have to trust me when I say it was incredible. The size of the cavern and the intricate rock formations are amazing in and of themselves and then you realize that the drawings on the walls were some of the first pieces EVER to depict motion. The techniques that the artists used were revolutionary and surprisingly clever, making our prehistoric ancestors feel much less removed from our modern times.



Fabrice and Elodie decided to head home but Jason, Rick and I decided to stop in Cahors for a stroll and a glass of their delicious wine before hitting the road back to Bordeaux. There's not much to see or do there aside from the Pont Valentré, but that's enough to sate your appetite for 14th century infrastructure.





We never did make it to Limoges but I don't think anyone was disappointed.