Saturday, July 26, 2014

The Power of Words

Living in France has taught me many lessons and the big one recently has been self-confidence. Anyone who knows me might find that statement a bit surprising. "Nicole, you're always so outgoing, the center of attention. You seem like you're totally confident all the time!" That's awfully nice of you to say so, fictional friend, but just like every other person in the world, I find myself stricken with insecurity all the time. Am I doing this right? What do I do now? How are other people reacting? Is it enough? What if I'm wrong? I don't know what I'm doing.

When you uproot your entire life and move to another country where they do not speak your native language, you are faced with these fears on a daily, hourly, minute by minute basis. I am extremely self-conscious and hyper aware of other people's reactions to my actions. Chalk it up to years of being the mediating middle child. While this makes me very compassionate, empathetic, and eager to please, (and so modest!) it also makes me susceptible to being taken advantage of and I often find myself wantonly sacrificing my needs in the name of simplicity. I'd rather suck it up and take the misery myself than rock the boat too much. 

I am slowly starting to see that this is neither helpful nor fair and above all, it's not sustainable. What I find most is surprising is the catalyst of this shift: I think a lot of this change was spurred by language. 

As a language teacher and lover of languages/culture in general, I have always been fascinated by the idea of linguistic relativity: that our language affects the way we think, act, and perceive the world around us. Take the Chinese word "guanxi" for example. It's usually translated to "network" or "connection" but it's more so the concept of the dynamics of relationships between people and how your behavior can build or destroy them. Linguistic relativism suggests that part of the reason the Chinese are a collectivist culture is because they have words like this that focus on the work of maintaining many relationships. Not surprisingly, we don't have this type of word in Western languages, where cultures are much more individualistic. We can have a chicken or the egg conversation about this all day, but the idea of linguistic relativity states that the word happened first and the actions followed.

I have an interesting example of how this came about in my own life recently: I just finished my first year with Kedge/CEL and we had to validate our final paystubs before everyone went on summer vacation. I noticed that I still had not been paid for a few jobs I did in the last couple of months. I had written several very polite emails about the problem, in my loveliest French, and everyone assured me that it would be addressed tout de suite. Two months later, nothing was fixed and I was annoyed.

One afternoon, the coordinator, Georgina, called me into her office to see if we could get this matter resolved. She prefers to speak Spanish with me, probably because it's her native language and she knows that I speak it and she doesn't speak English. She started showing me her records of when I worked and what I had been paid for and I noticed right away that she had not written down all of the dates I had told her about. My Spanish is rusty to say the least so I was forced to speak in somewhat simple, direct and clipped sentences. Faltan dos días aquí. Con las otras fechas, son 8 horas en total. I also noticed that they hadn't included my hours for these language dossiers that I had corrected. Every three dossiers was equivalent to an hour of work. Tengo también 10 dossiers, entonces tres horas a pagar. She tried to come at me with this, "Are you sure it wasn't four for an hour?" madness and I quickly replied with, No. Tres. Estoy segura. At the end of the conversation, she had confirmed the 11 hours I was missing and sent a corrected version of my payslip to the administrators.

Never in my life have I stood up for myself like that. Normally, there is a lot of "Well, I'm not really sure" and "Could we take a look at that again?" and "I could be wrong" and "I'm sorry to be such a hassle!" but there was none of that this time. I was calm, clear and I cut right to the chase. I have no doubt that some of my previous hang-ups were compounded by socialization (women who stand up for themselves are bitchy and demanding while men are go-getters) and maybe a bit of feeling too young to be taken seriously, but I find this language factor to be really interesting: If you don't have enough words to mince, you have to get right to the point.

You often hear polyglots say that they are different people depending on the language they're speaking. I suppose I always believed that to be at least somewhat true but this incident has convinced me. Could this conversation have played out the same way if we had had it in French? In English? Maybe. But my gut says that my brain was working so hard on making the right words come out in Spanish that I didn't have any mental energy left to be (excessively?) polite and accommodating like I normally am. On top of that, Spanish is a significantly less... verbose... language than, say, French. It is inherently more direct. Is this another reason why it was so easy for me to get right down to it while speaking in Spanish? Possibly...

Moral of the story: being multilingual has surprising, and in some cases, life-changing side effects. You simply can't underestimate the power of words.

Tuesday, July 8, 2014

Bayer Bookings, Bed & Breakfast

Most people in France take their holiday time in July or August. As we learned this year, most Americans do it in June. This is the story of how we ended up running a tour service/bed and breakfast out of our apartment for a solid month.

Starting in January, we were getting requests from people who wanted to come visit. As far as I knew at the time, I was not going to be working after May, so when everyone said they were interested in June, I was thrilled. It's a great time to be in Bordeaux: lots to do, great weather, and the English-speaking staff at restaurants will be on duty.

It was going to be a busy month, for sure, but nothing crazy:
June 4-11: Kelly and Kate (our friends from Baltimore)
June 16-19: Jere and Joyce (Jason's aunt and uncle)
June 23-26: Drew and Kristen (my friends from college)

As time went on, though, I was offered more classes and more things to do at work. They needed people to interview the new students for next year, I had another sequence of my seminar to teach, my evening class ran through July 1. Suddenly, I was no longer as available as I had originally thought. Jason was equally tied up with things to do at work because, you know, he has a full time job. Adding to the madness, we had two more additions to the lineup come in at the end of May/beginning of June:

June 4-11: Kelly and Kate
June 16-19: Jere and Joyce
June 21-23: Alyn (our friend from Baltimore)
June 23-26: Drew and Kristen
June 28-30: Jenna and Ben (my friends from college)

I do not want you to think for one second that it was not AMAZING seeing everyone. It is really cool to share your new life with people from your old life. I find that friendships often exist in a specific place and time, and when you no longer share that space, many of your friendships change or fade away completely. It is truly special when a friendship can 1) last despite the difference in time and space and 2) exist, even in a small way/moment, within a new situation. It's more obvious when the time and space is greater, like moving to another continent and not seeing each other for over a year. Also considering that we don't have a ton of close friends here, it was wonderful to spend time with people that we know well and that know us. Refreshing.

All that being said, I must admit that it was kind of an insane endeavor, now that I have the time to reflect on it a bit. Trying to balance work, touring around, catching up with people and just living was a lot more challenging than we had anticipated. Even more so when you have to do it five times in a row with very little (sometimes no) break in between. Little things like eating and getting places take much more time and energy than normal, and you start to feel like a kindergarten teacher: "Is anyone hungry? Who has to use the bathroom? Did everyone get a chance to see that? Okay, let's keep going. Stay together!" I felt like I didn't talk to Jason for the whole month, partially due to our tag-team work-guest routine, and also because we were so busy talking to everyone else. It was all such a blur and I wish I had had more time to just sit and enjoy the company of our friends instead of running from pillar to post, trying to see and do everything.

But how do you really balance the two? When people are here, maybe for the only time in their lives, it would be a shame not to explore the city and the surroundings. Seeing as I live here, I do know some things about Bordeaux and I was really happy to get to share that knowledge with everyone. There are so many things that I love about this place and it's hard to do them all in two or three days, so you almost feel obligated to run around a bit.

What have we learned from this whole experience? First, that there is no substitute for good friends and family. Even under somewhat stressful conditions, there's love there and that makes it all worth it. Secondly, planning and anticipating are paramount. If you can check it out ahead of time, do it, so when you arrive, the only thing you have to worry about is having a good time. We have also gotten pretty good at knowing how long people are able to walk around before they need a rest, a bite to eat and/or a bathroom break, and you can't count on them to ask for any of those things before it becomes urgent. Lastly, it's okay to not know everything. I know I'm supposed to be the resident expert on all things European but that fact of the matter is that I still have a lot to learn and figuring them out together is not so bad.

Thank you everyone for coming to see us! We love you!!

I didn't have time to take a lot of pictures but there are a few good ones I managed to snap throughout our crazy adventures:

With Kelly and Kate: Cognac-Bordeaux-Biarritz-Pamplona-San Sebastian-Bordeaux. I learned that cognac is delicious and re-learned that Spain is awesome.
At Rémy Martin in Cognac


Biarritz


Pamplona


San Sebastian


With Jere and Joyce: They kind of did their own thing so they took their own photos. Thanks for being so independent!

With Alyn: Fête de Musique in Bordeaux and St. Emilion. The best way to do an outdoor concert is to have performances everywhere and to be able to drink in the street.






With Drew and Kristen: Bordeaux and Arcachon (w/ Nicole). Crowded transportation + climbing a giant sand dune + eating your body weight in mussels = epic nap on the beach.


With Jenna and Ben: Bordeaux Wine Festival and St. Emilion (w/ Jason). A diet comprised solely of wine and cheese is a pretty good diet.



This is made completely out of corks